Fortunately, I was able to putty and sand away most of this rough texture but the facial features were damaged beyond repair. A buddy came to the rescue and provided me with a spare Bat Noggin he had left over from a conversion. He also provided me with a spare Bat Emblem decal and a full size scan of the Batarang which I used as a template to fashion a replacement for this missing accessory. The assembly of the figure was pretty straight-forward; after cleaning off the old paint and glue and sanding everything smooth I assembled the head, limbs and torso as separate sub-assemblies.
I also sanded off the moulded-in utility belt as I felt the detail in this area was too soft and indistinct and I planned to replace the belt with a new scratch-built item. With the torso and limbs assembled separately, I drilled a pair of holes in each limb at the point where they attach to the torso. These holes allowed me to flow in a splash coat of epoxy resin after the limbs were attached. I always use a splash coat inside any hollow construction, particularly one with fragile joints or one that needs to withstand any sort of rough handling during construction - for me, rough handling is standard.
I feel this splash coat re-enforces all the glued seams and in this case, provides a more solid join between the limbs and the torso. After attaching the limbs to the torso with solvent cement, I poured an ounce or two of two-part epoxy into the body cavity and sloshed it around until it had flowed into all the limbs and evenly coated the inside surface of the model.
After all this had hardened, I puttied and sanded all the seams and then coated the puttied areas with Mr. Surfacer prior to a final finish sanding. I detailed the belt with a buckle made of two layered styrene rectangles, six half-round styrene rods and a couple of bits from the spares box.
I then repeated this process after the yellow spray lacquer I used to paint the belt dissolved the thin styrene - that was my reward for trying to cut corners. I then primed the accessories and set them aside. I undercoated the figure's head with Tamiya Gloss Orange and then airbrushed the exposed parts of the face with layers of Tamiya Flat Flesh.
After this had dried, I masked off the flesh areas and airbrushed the cowl with Tamiya X-3 Royal Blue. I added a few drops of Flat Black to this mix and sprayed this onto a masked off area of the cowl directly above the face as my references all indicated that this area is darker than the rest of the cowl.
I then dry-brushed the raised areas of the face and washed the figures eyes with layers of brown and black ink over a white base-coat. This was masked off and the boots, gloves and shorts were sprayed with Tamiya X-3 Royal Blue. The cape was also painted with Tamiya Royal Blue, the inside surface of the cape being given a coat of the same colour darkened with flat black. I sealed the decal in with another coat of Future.
To attach the utility belt, I applied a coat of super glue to the inside of the belt and wrapped it around the figure's waist, closing the buckle with solvent cement. I was concerned with the tenuous attachment of the cape; it only attaches at two tiny glue points on the figure's shoulders. I didn't think this was strong enough to support the heavy cape so I drilled and countersunk two small pilot holes through the cape and into the shoulders and drove a pair of coarse-threaded screws through the cape to secure it.
I then filled the counter-sunk holes and screw heads with Milliput and tooled the filler to restore the folds of the cape which were damaged. I coated the filler with Mr. Surfacer, sanded it smooth and painted the area with Tamiya Royal Blue to blend it in to the surrounding area. While the new lead models don't really allow alot of conversions, the tanks are a blast to paint. And the Idea of being able to field a fully motorized force on a blitzkrieg makes me want to stock up on chimerras!
Unfortunately, I dont have any pictures of my tanks yet, but don't feel bad But here are a few of my favorite imperial guardsmen, and some ideas on how I painted mine. The Mordian iron guard are quite possibly one of my favorite units.
Though admittedly they look somewhat rediculous on the field of battle. This gave me the idea for my mordian unit. The light blue-grey pants with the two orange stripes going down the sides look great, and are easy to do. Black boots, a sharp blue uniform, and shoulder pads to match his stripes complete the effect. I did all the trim on him in bronze.
This is my assault squad sargent. I took the hand with the sword off a mounted horseman model, and the red bandana completes the effect. I used a marine backpack to give him a jump pack, because the normal jump pack looks absolutely rediculous on a puny imperial guardsman. If you look close you can see a number on his front patch. I've numbered all my guardsman squads with roman numerals. These Are my catachan jungle fighters. These are by far some of the best miniatures GW has come out with to date.
They are very detailled models, and look absolutely stunning when painted well. A dark green for the pants, and a leathery brown for the accesories. The skin look was acheived by starting with a skin tone base, and applying many many coats of washes. Then I add very light brown one drop at a time to the mix, and wash the skin after each drop. Finally I darken the wash heavily, and thin it out, and apply two more final washes. This gives the skin a very dirty weathered look to it.
The ogryn is possibly one of my favorite models to paint. This one took me a number of hours to do. I began with the skin, basing it all in flesh tone. Then painting all the leather for the clothing on. On this model, the leather looks like it is a variety of pieces sewn together hastily, so to give it that unkemp look, I tried to make each peice a different leather color, or shade, and I painted the threads a dark brown, to bring them out.
The bullets were done with a simple steel color, and brass tips.
|Testors light grey heavily thinned||777|
|Greta gremlin monster||Macbook pro to apple tv wireless|
|Weon||Wheels and baby|
|Tangi||Display as a link instead. So, you at least get the diagrams and explaination for things like the desert Caunter camouflage scheme. Coverage is also very good. There are a couple of short pages devoted to Pacific schemes although these are sort of an afterthought, almost. So this is my inquisitor.|
When they get there they will stay until the beginning of April, when their internal calendar tells them that it is time to go back. These delicate creatures now face danger of another kind — from scientific progress. Laboratory experiments have shown that half of the butterflies which feed on the leaves of genetically modified maize die within 48 hours.
Not all experts agree that this variety of maize is responsible for the threat to the Monarchs. In spite of these doubts, the European Union has refused to approve new crops of genetically modified maize until further investigations have been carried out. In the US, millions of farms grow genetically modified maize which is pure poison for the butterfly.
In the mountains, which reach a height of 3, metres, the butterflies are safe. According to the investigations of the European Union, the Monarch butterfly may disappear in several decades. The long journey, with all its dangers, begins again. Example: An organism containing genetic material that has been artificially altered genetically modified. The post was edited 1 time, last by Baranovich Apr 23rd , am.
The post was edited 3 times, last by Baranovich Apr 24th , pm. The post was edited 1 time, last by Baranovich Apr 27th , pm. Hi all, I've started speed painting a new army using mostly contrast paints. Apparently, GW still can't manage to get their s For my stuff, I decided to go with the wraithbone undercoat because I like the warmer tone it creates more than white or that grey primer. However wraithbone seems to be out of stock here germany everywhere locally and in online shops.
Additionally, prices are pretty high as are the delivery costs if you don't order large amounts of stuff. Has anybody made experiences with other off white spray primers? I did some google-fu, but people are mostly talking about whether contrast primers are needed on a technical level which is not my concern I've had contrast colours work just fine on corax white and as far as I know the primers of other companies are already smoother that gw's cw, which is where that issue comes from.
What I'm looking for is a substitute spray which looks as close to wraithbone as possible, or rather produces the same tone after I put on the colours. Maybe vallejo bone white? Desert tan? Army painter skeleton bone?
My army will have quite a lot of colours, so I'd like to have the most uniform look which is possible under the circumstances by setting the same colour tone. Unfortunately I've already started painting and spraying stuff with wraithbone, otherwise I would simply go with an alternative which is cheaper and better available.
Plz hlp kk thx. Maybe Baranovich , grand sage of contrast wisdom? There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly! Thanks for your detailed answer! Sounds like grey with a brighter tone might be interesting for zenithal primer. Vallejo desert tan seems to be a lot more yellow, however if the difference to that one is noticable but not that big I might be tempted to try some of the bone white or off white alternatives.
With GW 's current situation it might be months until I get my hands on a new can of wraithbone spray Thanks a lot! I'd love to see some pictures if you get around to it I feel more confident now in trying another basecoat. I think my local store only has army painter and maybe vallejo available. Really appreciate it I decided that I wanted to try my luck with vallejo bone white, which would seem close enough.
michaelkorstote.com: Testors Model Master Medium Gray Arts, Crafts & Sewing. This paint was easy to use and provided even coverage with minimal thinning. Regarding price, Testors' Model Master acrylic line comes pre-thinned for airbrushing, but most of their colors need to be translated to railroad paint. Excellent for either brush painting or air brushing if thinned. Covers well, flows smoothly with no blushing or fading, and can be blended easily with all Model.